Life's Persistent Questions

April 11, “Baghdad on the Bayou”

Everything in Texas is big. It took us 12 hours and nearly 900 miles to go from El Paso to Houston. When it comes to size, Texas is definitely numero uno. From the steaks at the Taste of Texas to the constellation of hospitals at the Texas Medical Center, small is not an option. Not to mention the rockets and space shuttles at NASA’s Johnson Space Center. About the only thing that is built in disproportion to the state and the city of Houston, which is the fourth largest metropolitan area in the U.S., is the Houston Amtrak station. It is a small one story shack nestled, or rather tossed aside, under a highway overpass.

What I love about Houston? The FOOD. From the oyster po’boy to stinky tofu, I never ate so good in the U.S. when traveling alone. Thanks to my long-time friend, Patrick, I got to visit some of the venerable culinary institutions of Houston. The Goode Company has mastered the many of the Texas delicacy, from BBQ to seafood, from steaks to Cajun cooking. I will not forget the oyster po’boy I had right after I got off the train. My only regret is that I ate a hamburger on the train, which deprived me both the money and the extra room in my belly for a second po’boy. We later went to the Goode BBQ, and it was a carnivore-heaven. 3-meat combo dinner was only $11, and it came with jalapeño sweetbread and two “veges.” This presented two serious problems. I had to choose from a list of over ten meats—brisket, ribs, chicken, duck, two kinds of sausages, pulled pork, ham, and others. I HAD to settle for ONLY the brisket, sweet water duck, and jalapeño sausage. I also got to try a piece of the ribs. Like a father with kids, it would be insensitive for me to pick one to be my favorite. The second problem was that I don't really care for any veges. But a more careful examination of the menu revealed that the closest any of the items comes to resemble an actual vegetable is cole slaw. So I opted for baked beans and jambolaya. Next time, I will opt for the a la carte menu, “meat only” baby!


NASA’s Johnson Space Center, or rather the JSC, was pretty cool. I did took a wrong turn and had an hour of detour driving by the numerous chemical and oil companies along the gulf coast. Apparently the JSC has become much more restricted to the public since 2001, and the guided tour only showed us the original mission control center, now defunct, that was used for all the Apollo missions. Amazing how ancient the technology were, yet they put men on the moon with essentially 800 kb of computing power and some analog, rotary phones. We also visited the training simulation facility. I found it interesting that it has the emblems of space programs from nations around the world, and the only one missing, perhaps obviously, is the Chinese. The stalemate would only continue, given the recent political climate and the potential retreat of the Chinese from friendly engagement with other world powers. The rest of the space center open to the visitors play more like a children’s hands-on museum and science center. But you did get to touch a piece of moon rock. I easily spent more than four hours in it, which put me way behind schedule for Galveston…

…and that was a good thing. Once referred to as the “arm pit of Texas,” the Galveston I saw was pretty desolate. Perhaps it was the overcast day, or the salty humid sea wind that clinged to every square inch of my exposed body, or the empty streets in front of the “renovated” downtown district, I felt depressed. Once the biggest port in Texas and boasted an opulent city, the island today, at least on April 9, 2008, felt empty.


Yesterday, I finally got to visit the famed Texas Medical Center that I have heard so much about. Even after walking through the area, I am still confused about the affiliation of the various hospitals and the two medical schools, UT-Southwest and Baylor. My friend Patrick wondered out how the hospitals survive the competition from such close proximity. But they appear to be doing quite well, if the hospitals’ lobbies and soaring towers are any indication. My three days in Houston happen to be overcastted, but I still felt humid and icky when walking outside. Boy, was I hungry after walking around the medical center for four hours.

And we had just the right place to have lunch. There is a nice Taiwanese restaurant in the de facto Chinatown to the west of downtown. We ordered stinky tofu hot pot, snails stir fried with basil and deep fried intestine, some of my favorite. Hands down, the stinky tofu there was the most pungent I have encountered on this side of Pacific. Yum-yum. A brief stroll in the strip mall revealed a variety of establishments essential for survival by oversea Chinese: restaurants ranging from southeastern Asian cuisine to Beijing-style lamb hot pot; shops from video rental to Chinese bakery; Chinese grocers to stores where one can buy utterly useless but ultra-cute accessories.

Our last meal was steaks at the Taste of Texas. The restaurant was decked out appropriately with the paraphernalia of the state. Still recovering from our gorging at the Taiwanese restaurant, I was initially relieved to read that the steak was ordered by the ounce. That was until I saw in the smaller print, “16 oz. minimum.” Oh well, I went with my trusted old friend, the Rib-eye. And the steak was huge and was fabulous, probably one of the best I have ever had. It was no 72 oz freak, but I can still feel the sucker this morning.


Leaving for New Orleans today. The train is ONLY one hour and 40 minutes late today. I am sad to say good bye to Houston. With great friends, great food, and great achievements, Houston is a city I will be coming back again. I guess I will have to beat down my sorrow with a few pounds of boiled crawfish in NOLA.

posted by hedgehog @ 7:18 AM