April 12, New Orleans
It was HOT. In hindsight, a pair of short would have been handy in Houston and New Orleans. Even in the evening, the air in the Big Easy was warm and humid. I also regret carrying my backpack. The St. Vincent’s Guesthouse in the Garden district was nice, and I met a few fellow passengers on the train there who were doing similar rail treks on passes. After settling down, I decided to walk to the French Quarter. The locals here had a way of naming directions according to the positions relative to the flow of the Mississippi River, which I was not too keen on trying to decipher in one night.
The walk was easy and I saw buildings some appear to have been renovated recently and some in distress often juxtaposed next to one another. Unfortunately, it was getting dark. I entered the French Quarter via Royal, and began my search of the boiled crawfish. The good news was that the crawfish is in season, evident by the farms of flooded cages during my train ride. However, several restaurants had run out by the time I arrived while others only serve them at brunch. I suppose that the best ones are probably at hole-in-the-wall joints infrequently frequented by tourists like myself. After an hour, I finally found it in the Desire Oyster Bar. The crawfish was over-priced ($8 per pound!) and somewhat smallish. But the crawfish boil seasoning carried a memorable punch. It was definitely a unique experience and delicacy.
French Quarter was what I expected. A lot of people and a lot of drinking on the street. I guess if anything, there was a lot less boobie-flashing than I imagined, but that was fine by me. Crowded live music joints next to crappy daiquiri bars next to stripe clubs next to drinks-to-go stands. Off the main Bourbon Street were more galleries and shops selling anything from antiques to art to voodoo crafts. Had they been open, I could have easily lost an entire day in them. I finished the night walking past the Saint Louis Cathedral, Jackson Square, Café du Mont and the river front. By then the heat had gotten the best of me, and I couldn’t wait to get back to St. Vincent’s for a nice long shower.
posted by hedgehog @ 3:39 PM
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